Tuesday 19 November 2013

Victoria Falls

For as long as I can remember, I have always wanted to visit the falls. My father was there as a young man. When we were kids he would captivate us with slide shows beamed from a small projector onto my mothers white table cloth, which he hung in our living room. The pictures of the falls made a huge impression on me as a young boy and a deep longing to visit them emerged within.

In primary school we also learned about the falls during a history class on Africa. Here I learnt the name the native Tonga people gave to the falls - Mosi-oa-Tunya - Smoke that Thunders. I remember thinking how beautiful the name was and what a shame it was that the falls were more commonly known today by the name of an English queen who never even stepped foot in Africa - let alone saw the falls.

In my teens I visited the Niagra Falls in Canada. They were awe inspiring - for about 10 mins! The crass commercialisation of the town soon drowned out the majesty and beauty for me. I remember thinking at the time that the Victoria Falls would be different, because it was Africa - a wilder land, closer to nature, and unspoilt by tacky American commerce.

As a young man I met and married a beautiful Shona girl. I told her of my love for the falls I had never seen and shared my wish for them to be my last resting place - where my ashes should be spread so that people could come to remember me at a powerful spot of immense natural beauty.

The problems in Zimbabwe made my wife reluctant to visit the country again until this year. When we eventually did plan our trip the falls were first on my list.

When I first laid eyes on the falls I was filled with a deep sense of awe and wonder. I had never before seen such a sight of power and majesty - it was everything I imagined and more. The afternoon spent walking with the family along the viewing route was a truly spiritual experience. This is Africa at its most wild, powerful and free.

The town of Victoria Falls has a good road into it and the streets are clean and well maintained. There is free fast broadband access in most of the hotels. The electricity works with no blackouts. In fact, the only issue with technology was the credit card machines in the restaurants and hotels which couldn't pick up a signal. It has to be said that this is very different to the rest of Zimbabwe which badly needs investment in critical infrastructure such as roads, electricity and broadband.

The trip to the falls would not have been complete without a bungee jump from the river bridge. As I had done one 13 years before in RSA I was confident that fear wouldn't be a problem. How wrong I was - as I stepped out onto the bridge it gripped me in a vice. I was frozen and my will to jump vanished. Why was I here doing such a stupid thing - why risk my life for a brief adrenaline rush? I chickened out. However, after a few words from my wife my courage as restored and I stepped out onto that bridge for a second time. This time I didn't look down - only at the horizon - and then I jumped! It was terrifying.....exhilirating, but, terrifying.

While I doubt I'll ever do another bungee jump, I most certainly will be back to visit the falls. They have possessed me in a way that is difficult to explain and indeed did so even before i visited them. It is as if they reached out across time and continents - drawing me to them from an early age. The Mosi-oa-Tunya were quite simply zvinoshamisa!



No comments:

Post a Comment